And so it begins: the track of doom, the bit I’ve been dreading since Bluff. Started well enough with an easy stroll along the lake to Gladstone ( just a large subdivision of Lake Hawea) then straight up on the Breast Hill track. The first section / quarter was fine if zigzaggy steep, through high bracken (very Welsh) then it got to a saddle and the fun started. For some reason I hadn’t expected proper, hands on, three points of contact scrambling, but that’s what some sections were. A whole lot of concentration needed when you have about 13kg on your back upsetting your balance! Still, the views started great and just got better. Eased off at the turning for Pakituhi hut, and a rocky uphill grind to Breast Hill summit after about 4.5h.

Then it was an easy stroll up and down on a giant 4WD track across the top for several kms. The track, albeit less defined, continued hairpinning down all the way to Stody’s, right on the edge of the beech forest. Cute little backwoods hut with fireplace, earth floor, two sleeping platforms and a bold resident mouse. Couple of Dutch backpackers popped by for a look on their way to Pakituhi but other than that I had the place all to myself. Bliss! Now to prepare myself for the apparent hell that is tomorrow’s route..,,

Finally, an easy day! Up late (8) and oats /coffee in room, then out to purchase canvas gaiters for next section (I left mine at home and there’s many dire warnings of Spaniards/matagouri over the next few days), then popped into Patagonia for chocolate fix. Set off around 10am, right behind two other obvious TA hikers. Played hare and tortoise all round lake. Lake very picturesque this morning as it’s finally decided it’s summer. LOTS of people out walking/cycling/running.

Very hot along the cycle path, but can’t really complain about sun and warmth after all the rain and cold. Got to Lake Hawea hotel/backpackers around 3 for a cold cider and a hot shower. That’s the last of either of those for four days! Also met support crew of ‘Adventurous Lucy’ (and ran past Lucy and co coming the other way) just outside Lake Hawea – she’s going for an FKT on TA and looked pretty strong. Hi Lucy!!!

In my happy place, with cider, at Lake Hawea. Finished for the day.

Another day of two halves : woken by pounding rain and a gale in first light, then it eased off, and when I looked out there was a dusting of fresh snow on the tops. Oooh!!

Headed out in a few extra layers. More vert to begin with, up to Jack’s Saddle. Sun started to come out and by Fern Burn hut it was lovely.

From the hut it was a fairly cruise downhill – although weirdly uphill to start! Sidling along steep grassy valley, down into beech woods with a cascade, then into meadows alongside a babbling brook. Lots of day walkers on this section, or folks just going to Fern Burn for one night. A few SOBO TA walkers heading up as well (Hi John!) Down to road by 1.30pm and scored a hitch with a lovely local guy out mountain biking for the morning. Now waiting to check in at YHA. Phew!

Short day : was aiming for Fern Burn Hut but by 1pm, after two big hills and constant buffering wind (plus intermittent cold drizzle) my legs threw a hissy fit at Highland Creek Hut and let me know they didn’t fancy another 1200m hill today. Legs eh?! As soon as I unpacked and had a wash the weather did an abrupt 180 and it’s now hot sun. Not too fussed though – the view’s bloody amazing, there’s no other bugger here and I can always hitch out from Glendu Bay tomorrow and save the 20k of lakeshore (I’ve run most of it before anyway). So here I am, chilling on the deck, gazing at snow-dusted mountains and sipping hot chocolate. Life is good!

Brief notes on today’s walk for those who might be doing it : Steep up from Rose’s Hut for about an hour, then down a sharpish ridge and into a gulley. Some loose rock to sidle across and a very overgrown trail on this bit. Into short bit of beech wood with a stream then steeply back up to a stile (about another 45m- hour climb) followed by a long sidle down a very exposed narrow trail (think sheep track) and a very steep down to Highland Creek. There’s a 2 mean little up-and-overs right at the end before the hut : be warned!

Up early and just around the road to where Elisabeth and Michael are staying, for a delicious free breakfast and a ride to Arrowtown. Felt very briefly guilty for not walking it but that passed as I munched on toast and honey..

The track out of Arrowtown is nice and easy to find, along the river and then steeply up on the Big Hill track. The clue was sort of in the name. In retrospect I would have done the 4WD track to Macetown as you pick it up the other side of Big Hill anyway and river levels were low enough for the frequent crossings not to be an issue. Big Hill was lovely but it was indeed a Big Hill, and the valley down to the river was boggy with no trail, just thick tussocks and bog.

Macetown was cute but there’s not a lot to see if you just walk through. Stopped for lunch amongst the lupins (yes they’re a weed but a bloody pretty one), then chose to follow the high water route up the valley as I’m a big wuss with river crossings. This was VERY steep and VERY narrow in places, crossing two slips as well, but 3 guys I spoke to who’d done the river route said they wish they’d taken it as the water was both high and freezing cold!

Finally made it up to Rose’s Saddle by 3 and down to hut for 4. Great little hut nested into a flat river valley – think this is where the shorter Motatapu race route comes. Shania Twain owns the whole thing – tempted to pop down the farm road and say Hi! Several others at hut, mostly SOBO on TA. Nice to have other people on the track this time around. Tomorrow goes straight back up another giant hill, so hoping for a good night’s sleep. Today was a stunner but hard mahi for most of the 21k. Might do a short one tomorrow: we’ll see how it goes.

Well I’m back. Or at least I’m back in Queenstown – haven’t set foot on a piece of dirt yet. Tomorrow is the start of three days on the Motatapu track across to Wanaka. (I’m wussing the walk to Arrowtown as a couple of lovely friends have offered a lift and I’ve cycled it before anyway.) No photos yet but it’s sunny so far, and all the rivers I flew over had ceased being milky blue torrents and were back to clear cobalt braids, which is promising. The snow’s also retreated from the Remarkables, so maybe I won’t even need those extra merino layers I brought with me….

Will report in from Wanaka : over and out from a cosy bunk at the Flaming Kiwi backpackers.

Okay, after over a week back home in Titirangi I am ready to climb the walls so rain or no rain, I’m heading back to the trail. A few changes though:

1. RAB bivvy bag and tarp, not tent. I only have one night where I’m expecting to camp and the bivvy is more storm-proof than my UL tent, weighs less and I can wear the tarp as a poncho. Rain, I defy you!!!

2. Mug. I didn’t take one to save weight, and I really wished I had. Good old enamel jobby so I can warm my hands and burn my mouth …

3. Extra warm stuff. Bloody hell I was cold!

Still taking a lightweight merino dress – it was mega useful despite all the people laughing on FB. I’m even taking my bikini on this section coz there’s hot tubs at Ohau Lodge and I missed out on the one at Kinloch due to having no togs.

Flights are booked, as are hostels. This time they’re all easily cancellable or open to change, so I have space to flex my plans. Who knows where I’ll get to (hopefully further than Wanaka but who knows what weather excitement will materialise this time)

Next stop – Queenstown on 3rd Jan. Happy New Year!!!

I’m now back in Auckland, having made the difficult decision to pull out of my trip early at Queenstown. I had to decide by 19th Dec if I was continuing as my partner had to post food parcels ahead before the last Xmas post that day. I also had hostel bookings that would charge if not cancelled ahead of time. Obviously now that I’m off the trail the previously dire weather forecasts have all changed to fair weather, the river levels are dropping and the predicted gales have not materialised, but I had to go on the information I had on 19th. Frustrated doesn’t even come close!

So what did I learn from my short two weeks that could be useful to anyone? Here’s a summary:

1. Don’t over-plan. If I hadn’t had so many prebooked hostels then I could have spent time waiting for better weather. I thought it would be more difficult to find accommodation at this time of year than it was.

2. Pack warmer things – I realise it was unseasonably cold but still, I needed to buy extra merino tops and long tights. I could probably have carried a warmer sleeping bag too.

3. Trust to serendipity – every time I needed something to happen (mostly a ride), it did.

4. Beware of South Island weather : I had to hike at this time as I’m a teacher and these are my holidays, but for anyone else I would not start SI until at least the end of December – just too variable.

5. Finally, if you think you can do it you probably can. I didn’t freak out alone in mouse-infested creaky huts in the middle of nowhere, I crossed raging mountain streams without dying and 30k in a day was absolutely fine. Go for it!

That’s it for now – no more posts until I hopefully get back on the trail in QT sometime in 2020-21. Hope it was worth reading!

Sarah

So this is it folks, I’m finished with the trail for this session. It’s been great (in parts) but the weather forecast for the rest of the week features gale force winds, more rain, and potentially snow on the higher parts. I packed for summer and there’s no way my single skin tent and two season sleeping bag are up to that. Plus one of my poles is broken and I’m a bit tired of being constantly wet. If I’d come halfway across the world then I might push on, but I can fly back down from Auckland another time for the next bit when it’s nicer. I’ve learnt a lot about resilience, I now know I don’t freak out in a mouse infested hut in a forest all in my own, and my gear would have been perfect if it actually resembled summer. Have made it through forest, bog and beach to Queenstown and this is an easy place to start and finish. So it’s Farewell TA for now – maybe back in 2020???

Back to civilisation!! Up late (been offered a lift by Kiwi Kirran who is NOT a rusher) and headed off down track 8.45. Not even raining! One of my hiking poles snapped almost immediately – I feel this is a definite sign that I should be stopping in Queenstown!

Absolutely stunning trail down to car park, 13k of glorious beeches, crystal blue waters and snow capped peaks. This is more like it, just as I’m finishing!

Made it to car park for noon and chilled out in sun waiting for Sarah (another tramper) and then Kirran. Ride out to Kinloch Lodge where S and I both scored rooms. A beer in the sun set everything to rights – life is good ! ☀️🏔🍺