Cape to Cape (Perth, WA) – April 2023

Bit of a side trip from Te Araroa but I headed to Margaret River region over Easter to catch up on a Covid-postponed multiday hike of the Cape to Cape track. Time constraints and lack of accommodation availability meant I ended up booking my first ever guided hike, with inspiration Outdoors. This was around 10x more cash than my planned solo camping version but meant I had a room, food and transport each day. I wasn’t initially keen on being shepherded along the track, but actually I enjoyed having some company as well as learning about local history, flora and fauna. To cap it off, I was carrying a cartilage injury so this was a good way to ensure I didn’t run it and do myself more damage!

Day 1 – Cape Naturaliste lighthouse to Yallingup (14km)

Picked up by minibus in Perth and met group (11 in total). Got to know a few on drive down to start. I’m the youngest by about a decade, maybe more, but everyone seems fit and enthusiastic. Dropped at lighthouse to eat packed lunch, then a group photo and off. Weather perfect (blue sky and sun), and the track is amazing – all cliff top views and up-and-down to golden beaches. Very much like the south coast of NZ crossed with SW England but nicer weather! The track is extremely well marked and you’d struggle to get lost. Passed Mount Duckworth campsite, which seemed nice. Saw one legless lizard but no snakes. Finished with a climb up the stairs from Yallingup Beach to car park for a cold drink, then back to Margaret River motel for dinner. Feels like cheating not to be in a tent…

Cape Naturaliste lighthouse – the start of the track

Our group on the track just a few km south of the lighthouse

Back to luxury at Margaret River motel – better than a tent!

Day 2: Yallingup to Moses Rock car park (19km)

First full day, as yesterday was only an afternoon. Started from carpark where we finished yesterday, then off along the coast again. Totally different weather day – started out nice enough, if a bit grey, but just after the lunch stop (Injidup beach carpark) it began absolutely hosing down, and the whole section along 4WD tracks on the cliff tops to Moses Rock carpark was basically dismal. We did see some kangaroos near the end, but gale force winds, torrential sideways rain and the threat of lightning kind of out a dampener on that section! Very very glad to see the minibus and that I wasn’t camping out at Moses Rock tonight! Having said that, the scenery was still spectacular. Injidup beach is lovely and the sea spurges added colour. We even saw kangaroos near the end of the walk (keep your eyes open on the boardwalked section near Moses Rock). The 4WD tracks would have been very hot and sandy without the rain, so maybe it even helped. Quininup Brook was only a trickle and no sign of the waterfall, although maybe tomorrow it would be a torrent after the rain! Again, signage was clear and easy to follow. Several steep ups and downs from beaches but mostly on well made wooden steps or log rollers, so nothing difficult. Some of the track around Canal Rocks is rocky and might be a bit more challenging with a full 7 day camping pack, but again not too bad.

Looking south at start (Smiths Beach?) – weather not so nice

Heading up Canal Rocks – loved this scrambly section!

More stunning coastline on Wyadup section

Injidup beach – glorious but look at that storm heading in!

Amazing sea spurges grow all along the beach sections

Weather closes in as we start the long 4WD section to Moses Rock

Rockier section near Moses Rock end of path. Mostly it’s sand though.

Wildlife! Lots of ‘roos once you get onto the boardwalk section near Moses Rock carpark

Day 3: Moses Rock carpark to Gracetown (16km)

Only a half day, finishing at lunch. It was nice to have a short one though so if doing this solo you might want to do likewise and stay in Gracetown, although you could easily hike from Moses Rock campsite to Ellensbrook campsite in a full day.

Weather still a bit iffy, alternating between gusty wind, rain and ‘not too bad’. Too cold to take advantage of any of the excellent swim spots though. Started back at Moses Rock North carpark and pretty soon passed through the campsite, which was scattered through the trees. A bit a a paddle through Wilyabrup Brook but not above ankle depth. At Biljedup Brook there’s a bonkers staircase that looks like it should be in a town centre (all stainless steel!) then steep up and down over the headland. At Cullens beach we walked through the dune slack/swale behind the foredunes to stay out of the wind, surrounded by more sea spurges. A steep sandy climb off that beach onto more cliff top 4WD track, through shoulder high scrub and boulders and finally an excellent rocky section around North Point down into Gracetown. That final bit was a struggle for those less steady on their feet but with a daypack and poles it was no problem. Gracetown beach would be heavenly in sunshine but we were ready to jump in the bus for a winery tour!

Rather our-of -place stairs heading up Biljedup Brook valley

More traditional steps down to Cullen’s beach

Going around North Point – a bit of a scramble!

Final bit of North Point before dropping down to Gracetown boat ramp

Day 4: Gracetown to Margaret River mouth/ Prevelly (19km)

Another full day but less than 20km, which is cruising with just a day pack! Boring start on road as tide was in, but then back onto cliffs over Cowaramup Point and down to Lefthanders surf beach. Only a handful of hardy souls out as it was again strong winds and grey sky. Mostly cliff top walking to the old homestead at Ellensbrook, where we were greeted with scones, cream and jam! I could get used to this guided walk thing! Easy stroll on wide path through woods past Ellensbrook campsite then short uphill over Gnoocardup road and down to beach at rocky outcrop called Joey’s Nose. Lovely white sand beach (Kilcarnup) which got progressively more challenging as the tide came in, until we were edging the side of dunes to get to the boat ramp! Back up to cliff tops over Cape Mentelle and round to river mouth. River not yet broken through sandbar and should have been dry but the high winds and tide meant that waves were breaking across it so we got wet feet after all! Just a short uphill track to meet bus at top of hill.

Morning tea stop at bus on way past Lefthanders

Enjoying the whole guided walk thing – cream tea lunch at Ellensbrook!

Heading back down to beaches (Joey’s Nose in centre)

Mentelle Bay cliffs – fragile edges so stay back!

Dire warnings but only ankle deep and that was due to waves across sandbar.

Better view of river mouth from track up to road. What looks like a lagoon is actually just a thin layer of water as waves break across sandbar.

Day 5: Margaret River mouth to Hooley Road junction (26km)

‘Proper’ length hiking day at last! More mixed weather, and winds/high tides made the beach sections rather challenging. In nicer conditions they would have been lovely though.

Forest section to start, which was different and kept us out of the wind and rain. 360+ steps down to Boojidup Brook, where it was so slippy we nearly lost one of the group down a gully! Up and over headland to the first really long beach section of the track. Tide and waves were surging right up to the dunes in places so it was a case of leg it between dry bits! We were soaking wet and knackered by the time we scrambled up the rocks to the carpark at Redgate and very happy to climb on the bus for hot chocolate! Took pity on a couple of ‘proper’ through-hikers who’d escaped the beach via rough dunes/scrub and were shivering by the toilet block – fed them hot drinks to recover. Several folks sensibly bailed out at this point. Back out onto Redgate beach and a stream crossing (Calgardup Brook) where one of the two other group members still pushing on fell into a hole and got even wetter! Up onto headland amid weird ‘grass trees’ and burnt scrub, then rocky steps down to Bob’s Hollow for lunch break and back up past limestone cliffs to Contos campground. Really green over the tops with regenerating plants. Contos is so huge we actually got a bit lost finding the bus for hot drinks and to pick up more walkers. Out past (closed) Point Road campground and along forestry roads to pickup at Hooley Road junction. Probably my least favourite part of the track as the forest isn’t up to NZ standards and no sea views. Lots of deadfall from the wild weather too. Would probably have been lovely in hot weather as a respite from the sun though, or when it’s greener in spring.

Stairs down to Boojidup Brook – careful on this lower part in the rain!

The only thing that kept me dry (freebie plastic poncho from Milford Sound!) – Boojidup Brook mouth

Very sketchy section at end of Boojidup beach! Some hikers even detoured through rough scrub up on dunes to get up to the road instead but it was passable with care.

Looking ahead to beach below Contos campground

Forestry road heading out of Contos (don’t worry – you turn off before it goes uphill!)

Impressive hollow tree near Hooley Rd but watch out for falling branches – one nearly killed he just after this shot!

Day 6: Hooley Rd junction to Cosy Corner carpark (23km)

Another full day, and more challenging beach. Started out with the remains of the inland forest walk, which was a bit nicer today with more sun and greenery. I really like odd-looking ‘grass trees’ which are kind of like NZ spiky Spaniards stuck on a punga trunk! Karri and peppermints gave way to grass trees and then low scrub as we made our way up and over to the coast at Boranup Beach. This was the longest beach stretch so far and I got permission from out walking group leader to cut loose and stomp on to the end at Hamlin Bay. Very happy to do so as once again the tide was coming in and the walkable part of beach getting steadily narrower! The first half wasn’t too bad as there were 4WD tracks to walk in, but after about 4km those ran out and it was soft sand all the way. Stunning white sand and turquoise blue sea but also a 50-60kph headwind that meant I was walking with my neck tube pulled up over mouth and nose to avoid the blasting sand coming head on along the beach. Not pleasant! Made it to Hamlin Bay about 30min ahead of the rest and spent time looking for the famous stingrays by the jetty. Only one out though. Bus finally arrived for lunch and to meet up with the others, then off again along south Hamlin beach, where we had to pull folks up the ridiculously steep dune at the far end at Salmon Holes! Inland walking for the rest of the day up to tiny Foul Bay lighthouse and then a short downhill to the road at Cosy Corner. Pretty easy walking apart from the beaches, but that dune would have been tough with a large pack!

Beautiful but SO windy! Rained on and off most of way (see those clouds?)

Coming into Hamlin Bay settlement – see track leading off to carpark

The famous Hamlin Bay jetty. Not many stingrays today as water too churned up

Where the beach runs out and the track leaves near Salmon Holes – challenging!

Easy track down from lighthouse to Cosy Corner

Day 7: Cosy Corner to Cape Leeuwin lighthouse (23km)

The final day! Not everyone walked all of it, as it involved another long beach section. However, most of the group were up for the blowholes section at the start and it didn’t disappoint, particularly after all the stormy weather and high seas! Deepdene beach was predictably long and a bit of a slog but the sand was much harder-packed than Boranup, and the wind less strong. Again I was let loose at the front and so could stomp on to the rocks at the far end. That was fun, and not as difficult as the guidebooks suggest, with just one narrow section that can be bypassed by heading up through the scrub on a small track. Some stunning white sand and boulder-strewn beaches to follow before heading up inland and over Cape Augusta on narrow bush tracks. It seemed like we could see the lighthouse forever but never any closer! Finally it was down across the road for the final few bays. Quarry Bay was a mess of thigh deep rotting seaweed and I would suggest bypassing it via the road at high tide. The last stretch around the headland to the lighthouse seems never-ending but is pretty, especially the calcified water wheel. C2C walkers get free entry to the area round the lighthouse so we ran up and touched it before joining up for a champagne toast. Yay!!!

Sum up: despite my reservations of doing this as a guided tour, it probably worked it for the best considering the terrible weather. I’d have been very cold and wet in my 1P tent and really appreciated having decent food and a hot shower each night, as well as only carrying a day pack. Yes it was slower than usual, but that meant I rested my injured ankle. It also meant I got to chat to a load of really interesting and inspirational people who showed that age and injury/illness is no barrier to adventure. At times I had to run to keep up with octogenarians, and the oldest of the group was on her fourth end-to-end, having camped for two of those! The guides were excellent and apart from the cost ($2500+) I would happily do this sort of thing again. However, I still want to come back in spring to try it S-N and camping!

Looking north up Deepdene from start of the rocky section (marked ‘rock platform’ on guidebook map)

Narrow section along platform near south end – you can detour up and round it though, or walk the beach below at low tide

Cute caterpillars on track over Cape Augusta

Think my direction sense may be a little off here!

Calcified water wheel means nearly there!

Margaret River motel – base for the week

The only ‘snake’ we saw and it was a legless lizard!

Sydney jaunt – October 2019

Okay, so the October term break was supposed to be my opportunity for a strenuous kit shakedown involving a multiday tramping expedition somewhere in remote North Island to trial my ultralight tent, pack and sleep system. Unfortunately the appalling weather for what feels like the last three months meant that I bailed and headed off to Sydney for a week in hostels doing day runs in the sun! I am a bad TA tramper already…

On the plus side, I now have an ultra-ultralight poo trowel, a titanium long-handeled spoon, trashed quads and a suntan!

Plus, found several great little trail runs all accessible by train AND completed the 45k Six Foot track from Katoomba to Jenolan caves in two days – good as the second day was 30k of constant hills yet I still managed it (almost all walking, not running) in six hours. That gave me a lot of confidence for TA, where 30k is about average for most days.

Photos below of some of the high points of the trails. If you’re in Sydney I thoroughly recommend the Train Walks, Citymapper and NSW Parks apps. Oh, and the Six Foot Track Eco lodge!

Well I couldn’t not include a Sydney Harbour Bridge pic eh?!

Start of Cowan to Brooklyn section of Great North Walk. Def want to come back and do the whole 200k route sometime!

Unfortunately the second half /6k was all fire trail. Views sort of made up for it but MAN it was hot. Not expecting too many days like this in the TA!