So I finally made it to my last section hike (not doing Queen Charlotte Track as I’ve already done that, and the Link Track to Anakiwa looked like another mostly road walk, so Havelock was the finish point for me.)

Day 1 – St Arnaud to Red Hills hut (16km, 3h)

Spent most of the morning getting the shuttle to St Arnaud. Persuaded driver to drop me at the Nelson turnoff to save about 4km of road walk, then it was all along SH6 to the Red Hills mtb track turnoff. Decided on that (old TA route) rather than new TA route as it was about 3km/1h shorter and went straight there. The legs weren’t quite in gear yet and that pack felt HEAVY.

Bit busy along the road but mtb/4WD track was a comparatively easy ‘in’ to Red Hills hut. Mystery bed-bagging at hut which turned out to be a wife getting up there early to reserve spots for her husband the rest of her group! Fortunately there was still a spot for me. Turns out they used to live in Titirangi and the husband even ran with my local bush running group. Talk about ‘6 degrees of separation’ eh? Damp and cool evening but cosy hut. Could easily have pushed on to Porters hut but just felt like a cruisey first day to get the legs dialled in, plus it started raining in the afternoon.

Day 2 – Red Hills to Hunter’s hut (18km, 8h)

Looong day, with many many undulations. Nothing massive, just lots of down-and-ups to creeks and stream crossings. Some of them were pretty steep and scrambly, and at one point I even had to lower my pack down and then downclimb a tricky section. All waterways low though, so no major dramas. Started wet and miserable through boggy bits/mud but by Porter’s Creek it had dried out and I ate lunch in the sun. More ups and downs, with a really annoying giant boulder field to negotiate about 20mins before the hut. Got in at 4pm and a stream of SOBOs trickled in all evening, mostly complaining of wasps on the track up. Great atmosphere with chat, song and poetry – I kinda miss out on this usually going NOBO with no bubble.

Day 3 – Hunter’s hut to Top Wairoa hut (10.5km, 5h)

A half day today. The sun came out, it was hot climbing up over the tops and I didn’t fancy navigating Top-Mid Wairoa section on tired legs, so I rocked up at Top Wairoa hut, which is cute and orange, and spent all afternoon reading, washing in the stream (too cold in there to swim!) and generally having a lovely time. Hut gradually filled over the day and I was very happy when 2 more NOBOs, father and son duo M&J, arrived and decided to also leave tomorrow. They agreed that I could tag along for a bit of emotional support so that was a relief!

Day 4 – Top Wairoa to Tarn hut (14km, 7h20)

Another long hard day. Set off ahead of M&J to get a head start, only to be hailed halfway across my second stream crossing by American SOBO ‘Silly Moose’ from the hut, running and waving my poles. Well if he’s got MY poles, what am I carrying?….. Ooops!!! Fed him chocolate as a small apology for having to leg it nearly 1.5km downstream to find me and reclaim his own poles. Note to self – don’t just grab blue Black Diamond poles as you leave and assume they’re yours…

The stop allowed M&J to catch me and we made it the rest of the way to mid Wairoa hut as a trio, mostly led by the agile J (despite his carrying the biggest pack ever). It started fairly easy and we questioned all the fuss about this section, particularly as the river levels were low and the crossings only knee deep. Nearer the far end we found a couple of sketchy sidles where short-arses like me had to do some reaching around rocky sections/boulders on a high and narrow track. Nothing unsurmountable but it would have been a lot harder on a wet slippy track. I was pretty happy to see the hut after 3h20 – an improvement on some of the quoted 6h+ times we’d heard of from SOBOs earlier. Excellent swimming hole at the hut but I wanted to get to Tarn so a quick lunch (J kindly offloaded some tuna and wraps to me as he had overpacked and I was starving) at the hut and then up up and more up, with a lovely easy downhill at the end, to Tarn hut. The tarn is shallow, muddy and full of tadpoles/frogs but was still a welcome dip! Lots of SOBOs at this one, including a Kiwi guy in just boots and a kilt (!). M&J pushed on but I was done for the day. Very glad to have that section nailed.

Day 5 – Tarn hut to Old Man hut (12.5km, 8h)

So this was it. The Day of the Rintouls. Had heard a LOT from incoming SOBOS, everything from ‘its not so bad’ to I nearly died’ so not quite sure how it would go. A slog back up through forest from Tarn to Purple Top, but then the absolutely epic views up there made it all worthwhile. I even had phone signal to send out an update! Met a couple of SOBOs who conducted a full photo-shoot to give me some great pics of ‘Sarah up a mountain’ in case this was my last few hours on Earth…

I paused at the lovely Rintoul hut, which has epic views AND goats, ate some food and texted my partner to elicit some emotional support for the push over the tops. After some ‘big girl pants’ advice it was on and up. Hard slog up a seemingly never-ending scree slope to begin (pausing every pole for a sour snake lolly!) then onto more rockier stuff to the top of Mt Rintoul.

Made it to the top after a few sketchy moments and a fair amount of swearing. Down to the saddle over scree and boulders, although nothing technical, and sat in some shade for lunch. On up (more scree, more scrambles) to the summit of Little Rintoul and one more narrow sidle with a lethal drop-off before a fairly easy scree section down. By this point I’d kind of adopted the ‘probably won’t die’ approach and was just launching myself over things that I’ve have had the heeby-jeebies about before the Richmonds! Was very VERY glad to make it down into the cool beech forest and 30 mins downhill to Old Man hut. I even ran up and kissed the wall as I got there, to the confusion of a couple of resident SOBOs (K&M). Long day, epic views, very glad to have finished it. Great little hut with upgraded mattresses and sitting in another large grassy clearing.

Day 6 – Old Man hut to Starveall hut (15km, 5h40)

Steep climb out from hut back up to track junction on ridge, although only took 25mins. Unfortunately the weather gods were no longer smiling and this whole section was draped in clag, with none of the anticipated panoramic views to Nelson and Blenheim. Ah well. Nice rocky sections to keep the interest up, interspersed with pretty stunted beech forest. Bit of a drag up and over Old Man top but as I came across the ridge towards Slaty Peak, the clouds sort of dissolved to reveal truly amazing scenery. Stopped for a while to take it all in and hand out snacks to oncoming SOBOs, then across and down to Slaty hut for lunch break.

On down from Slaty to Starveall, with just a short sharp up to Starveall Top about 45mins before the hut. Put my tunes on and motored through beautiful beech forest, over tussock and finally down one last technical rocky section and some scree (ah – scree…) to Starveall hut. I was sort of glad there was no-one else up there to see me striding across the tussock singing ‘Go West’ at the top of my lungs! Picturesque views through the trees to Nelson and back to Purple top. Lovely spot. Had the place to myself for a couple of hours before French SOBO ‘P’ arrived, a little distraught as he’d lost his tent scrambling under treefall on the Browning/Hacket section. Hope someone finds it for him. More SOBOs gradually arrived, all cursing either the climb up (4h?) or the terrible track the other side of Hacket hut, with slips and trees down all over. Glad I’m heading out to Nelson before then. Glorious summer evening watching the sunset. Nowhere I’d rather be.

Day 7 – Starveall to Hacket road end (12km, 3h30)

A day of downhill! Steep forest track to begin, then flattened out to a nice gentle stroll to the river. Met a few SOBOs coming up, as well as a pair of trail runners (jealous!). Once down to the river it was a couple of kms back and forth across it (8 times??) just knee high wading and boulder hopping. Plenty of lovely swim spots but I was on a mission for cold cider in Nelson, so pushed on to the hut. Glad I stopped at Starveall last night, as Hacket is a bit underwhelming. Nice pool by the bridge to the hut though, and after that it was a day-walker’s path through pines and alongside the river. Even had safety fences and bridges! Made it to the car park just as a couple of folks were getting a shuttle to town, so chipped in $40 to save waiting for a hitch. Straight off the minibus and into River Kitchen for a bowl of salad and a cold brew – civilisation has some advantages! Bumped into a couple of ex-Auckland Joggers club members in the cafe (J&K) and then met up with ex-Dio colleague and hubbie A&J at pub for drinks later. Small world eh?

Day 8 – zero day in Nelson

Still managed about 10km wandering around. Strolled by the river, restocked food (more snacks this time), headed to beach where I found a music/food festival going on, and back to the Free House for a final beer. I love Nelson!

Day 9 – Nelson to Rocks hut (18km, 4h30)

Back out to trail, cutting out the Hacket to Browning section (lots of slips reported) in favour of an easier route straight up the Dun Mountain trail and over Dun Saddle. Great choice – mostly easy (if uphill) walking on 4WD track from Brook Street holiday park (bus in) along Brook St Sanctuary fence line to Third House shelter, then onto mtb track all the way up to Coppermine Saddle, where the track leads over Dun Saddle and down to Rocks hut. Cruisey day, nothing difficult, and got to hut just after lunch. No point heading further so just chilled out in massive 16 bed hut. Took an afternoon stroll 10 mins up to viewpoint, which has 360 degree panoramas of all the surrounding peaks, then back for chats with incoming SOBOs and a couple of locals on loop walks. Delightful evening all round!

Day 10 – Rocks hut to Captain’s Creek hut (10km, 3h30)

Another downhill day (mostly), meeting up with the Pelorus River for my final sections. Nice easy downhill for less than 2h to Middy hut for my first swim, then a bit of a climb up and down through open beech forest and ferns (with a goat encounter) to Captain’s Creek hut for more river swims. Just a shame that the second you get out you’re attacked by sandflies. It was a case of swim/run (swim in river, run to hut) and a hot afternoon inside afterwards. Still, a lovely spot and got to meet some SOBOs just starting out from the road end today. Lots of excited discussion of the Richmonds, gear, and other tramping stuff. Last Richmonds day tomorrow, then out onto roads to Havelock. Bit sad about that!

Day 11 – Captain’s Creek to Pelorus Brigde campground (25km, 5h30)

A day of two halves. Some hard yakka up and along through forest high above the Pelorus for a couple of hours, then down to the road end and about 14km of gravel/tar-sealed road to Pelorus Bridge. Fast walking and even hit a jog at times but soooooo hot on the road. Wonderful trail angels a few km from Pelorus Bridge had a sign with a free water tap and fruit trees. What lovely folks! Campsite far nicer than I expected – big open grassy area with plenty of room, plus showers/laundry and a large indoor kitchen/dining area. Even had a coffee/ice cream cart, which I made full use of. Got chatting to SOBO ‘P’ and also a couple of rare NOBO girls from the UK. My tent looked ridiculous next to all the giant awnings and vans, but it served well. Only its fourth outing on South Island! The river here is lovely and you can see why families come here. Great final night on route, even if it’s not a bush hut.

Day 12 – Pelorus Bridge to Havelock (21km, 4h30)

The final day! I’m not continuing past Havelock as I’ve already done QCT twice and I don’t really fancy yet more road just to get to Anakiwa, so this is it. The Pelorus was even prettier in the early morning sun, so I dawdled along it and through lush farmland for a couple of hours to the road. Gravel mostly, and easy walking, but the clouds gradually came in and my feet got more sore so I was glad to get to the end. The final 2km or so along the shoulder of the state highway were awful ; huge logging trucks flying past less than a metre away at times. There really needs to be more armco, or a gap between walkers and road users. Havelock is tiny and didn’t have many excitements to offer. I dropped my bag at Blue Moon Lodge and headed out for a pack-free stroll along the harbour spit to birdwatch, showered and then headed out to the sole open pub for pizza. Met a delightful lady travelling around by campervan with her dog, so that passed the evening. There have been so many fascinating folks to talk to on this trip.

Bed in my own private room. Aaaaah.

Just over 1000km walked. 46 trail days. 3 pairs of Nike Wildhorse trainers. One Salomon pack. One Lanshan tent that scarcely got used. It’s been a blast. Now what do I do next summer?……

Thanks to everyone for reading. Drop me a comment if you have any questions about the track, or look for me on the FB TA page. Good luck if you’re also doing it, and congratulations if you finished!

Final thoughts:

Favourite sections – Motatapu track, Nelson Lakes, Richmonds.

Favourite huts – Highland Creek, Rocks (also Stody’s for character!)

Favourite kit items – my Salomon OutNight pack, Nike Wildhorse shoes and S2S Flame zero down liner bag. Oh, and my kindle/phone!

Best advice – Don’t overplan/overthink it. The trail will provide.

Day 1: Arthur’s Pass to Locke Stream Hut. 20k, 6 hours

Got into AP last night and stayed again at The Sanctuary in my familiar ‘hobbit hole’. The C2C runners were here again training, so grabbed a ride down to them (thanks Bill) to Morrison’s Bridge and on to Aicken’s Corner, where Bill pointed me in the right direction and passed on a few final tips. The man is a legend – he even maintains the flood track all the way out along the Taramakau.

First challenge would be whether the Otira was passable, as otherwise it would be a long detour back to the bridge and down the far side. Despite rain all night, it was fine (just over knee depth and slow moving). The bigger challenge was finding that damn track on the other bank! Bill had advised me to ‘head for the burnt gorse’ but ALL the gorse I could see was burnt. Hmmm. Finally located a 4WD track heading out of the riverbed and stuck to that until it started going the wrong way. Bit of the usual standing in a meadow looking for orange signs, and some abortive following of deer tracks, but eventually located elusive triangles and then the flood track sign in the beech trees off on the right. (If you get to a stream crossing you’ve gone too far). Easy walking for once, in cool woodland and then out on a 4WD track alongside the river.

Met a (French?) tramper coming SOBO along this stretch – he was cursing the TA route on the south bank, so I took previous advice and crossed to the other side when the 4WD track branched that way. Easy to follow the north (true right) bank on the grass or pebbles all the way to where the TA rejoins after the river forks. Lovely meadow walking all the way up to Kiwi Hut, which is set back a bit in the beech forest on a small rise (says 15 mins from track bit more like 5). It was only lunchtime though, so cracked on upstream for Locke Hut, with fingers crossed that it stayed fine!

6 hours total walking brought me out of a patch of woodland into the clearing of Locke Stream hut – be aware that the section between these huts NOBO has some of those invisible orange markers, so keep your eyes peeled when the track seems to disappear into the stream/trees! 2 Kiwi trampers already there, but we managed to cope with 2 bunkrooms and 18 beds (triple tiers) between us…

Just got settled in when the heavens opened and the serious rain started. The cute little cascade into the stream by the hut became a churning torrent and I was suddenly glad I was heading upstream and not down tomorrow.

Day 2: Locke Stream hut over Harper Pass to Huruniu hut (25k, 7h30)

Woke to persistent but lighter rain. My hutmates were sensibly taking a zero but I was on a schedule so out into it I went, up progressively rougher paths (ignore slip detours and stay in the riverbed if possible) to the start of the serious climb. This was about half an hour of shingly steep narrow chutes and the occasional short sidle over a slip. Lots of stopping for breath but no views – just clag. Huh! Even the vaunted stunner from the top was absent, choked in low cloud and mizzle. Just lots of wet toitoi and speargrass to get me sodden, and the occasional dracophylum for interest. Bit of routefinding up on the top and a Hello to a sudden influx of SOBOs coming up, then down the MUCH nicer Hurunui side into beech woodland.

The rest of the day was mostly grassy river flats, as I took the straight line option rather than stay on the undulating forest track. It did mean I missed the hot pool between Huranui 3 and Huranui hut, but I also missed the three wire bridge and a lots of PUDs (pointless ups and downs) so I was happy to make the switch. Lunch inside the VERY basic Cameron’s hut (broken hammock bunks, dirt floor, leaky roof) and it was waterproof on/off all the way to Hurunui, up on a hill with a sneaky glimpse of Lake Sumner. Had the rest of the arvo to myself before a wet SOBO blew in mid-evening. Nice spacious hut again, and a rainbow just to finish the day off.

Day 3: Hurunui hut to Hope Kiwi Lodge (20k, 4h40)

Much easier day, and it even stopped raining on me. Downhill to the swingbridge then over a meadow to more beech woodland. Stayed in it this time as it was blowing a hoolie across the flats! Lovely track and a few SOBOs to nod to. Quite a bit of beech regrowth and downed trees at times to navigate, but no major issues, other than a wasp sting that had me imagining every symptom of anaphylactic shock for twenty minutes! Not many pics as it was mostly similar scenery all day. Made it through the open meadows to Hope Kiwi Lodge, which I think is better constructed than my house. Still just me, lounging on the rather odd ‘daybed’ bunks in the sitting area and reading an entire novel left there, until a couple dropped in for dinner around 6. Where is everyone?!

Day 4: Hope Kiwi Lodge to Windy Point and hitch to Boyle (15k, 4h)

Another lovely easy day, in sunshine and with a hot shower at the end. What’s not to like?! Lots more open beech forest, an escarpment with a view, some slightly soggy riverside ambling and then down to the most stunning turquoise gorge and swingbridge at the end. Just a bit to cold (and fast-flowing) for a dip. I even took a ten minute snack stop on the way, which it’s been too wet to do all trip! Very North American/Canadian in places, just minus the bears (a fact which I’m more than happy with…)

Was always planning to hitch from Windy Point to Boyle and after swearing at a succession of flash utes that all sped past, I scored a ride with a lovely woman and her pet bantam (yes, honestly – apparently it goes with her everywhere as it gets separation anxiety). Happy to see Boyle Outdoors Centre and my box of food. Their pizza was rather underwhelming ($15 for a $4 McCains cheese and tomato) but the shower and bunk were welcome. Updated social media and checked weather – hmmm, heavy rain/wind forecast for the day I was planning to cross Waiau Pass. Time for a rethink????

Day 5: Change of plan!

After some frantic Googling last night and a couple of texts to friends, decided to bail out to Hanmer until the weather bomb passed. Found a possible route back over to Waiau hut from Hanmer end, using the St James cycleway, so thought I’d check that out. Plus the hot springs were calling. After an abortive and highly embarrassing start (where I stood on the wrong side of the highway and was informed of my error by a VERY sarcastic policeman), I cadged a ride from the awesome Pirate to Hanmer and checked in at Hanmer Backpackers by mid-morning. The DOC office verified that I could head up Clarence/Rainbow Road and over one of two routes to Waiau hut so that was the new plan. Felt slightly wrong to be stopping as it was hot and sunny all day, but I used it to do a run up to a waterfall so that was fine. Was pretty good to take that pack off!

Day 6/7 – in Hanmer

(Nothing to post as basically spent one day in the pools and the next sitting out the predicted rainstorm in the backpackers, in front of a blazing fire and reading Wilderness mags. VERY good choice!)

Day 8 – Back on the trail! Over Maling Pass to Waiau hut (20k, 4.5h)

Still wet but forecast optimistic so headed off up Clarence Valley Road towards Jack’s Point in the drizzle. The worst-case scenario would be a 30k road walk to old Fowlers homestead/hut, then 2 days over Fowler’s Pass stopping off at Lake Guyon hut. However only about 45mins walk on the road and a conservation volunteer pulled over with a ride offer right the way up to the St James cycleway carpark at Maling Pass, thus shaving two entire days off my route. Awesome!

Still a bit grey and cold at the carpark but cleared as I walked up an easy 4WD track and over the pass to views right down the Waiau. Over the river (low and easy) then up the valley on more in-and-out of the trees track, to reach cute little Waiau hut tucked into the side of a meadow. A few more SOBOs and even a couple of rarely spotted NOBOs at the hut, with more arriving to fill the bunks and spill over to camp outside. It was nice to have a bit more company and also get a preview of Waiau Pass for tomorrow – I was having some serious jitters about that and had nearly pulled out of this section because of it. Oh well, tomorrow would see how it went!

Day 9: Over the Pass – Waiau hut to Blue Lake hut (15k, 7.5h)

Well this was it – the dreaded Waiau Pass. The reason I’d nearly bottled it and run back to Christchurch from Boyle/Hanmer. I figured I might as well at least go and look at it, since I had all the food in the world and nowhere else to be for the next week, so headed out early morning with the other two NOBOs to see how it would go.

Easy walking rapidly turned into one of those ‘up down, repeat’ scrambles through trees as the track tried to stay out of the riverbed. The water levels were so low I could just have waded, but you never know when you might hit a big pool or something, so up and down I went. The upper reaches were bounded by rockfalls, with several sections of rock-hopping and frantic searches for cairns to guide the way. NOT my favourite type of track! Still, I left the other pair behind so I cant be too bad at it. Finally made the base of the pass, with one last slosh through the Waiau river and through the tiny open space of the unofficial Waiau Forks campground (no facilities). Met my first SOBO of the day, who’d got up at 3am for a Blue Lake/Waiau Pass sunrise. Mad!!!!

The trail for the next half hour or so was glorious, following a stream up and up, past a waterfall to the head of the pass itself. I was starting to be glad I set out, no matter how bad it got later!

The first part was anti-climactically easy, just a steep narrow path up some bluffs. Not quite enough to put the poles away, although simpler to use hands on grass tufts or outcrops in a few spots. No real exposure either, although it looked trickier coming down. This went on for about 10-15 minutes until it flattened out for a bit (where I met a huge group of fathers and sons on a challenge weekend). Good spot for a breather and a flask refill as it’s the last stream until the other side.

Now it got noticeably steeper, with some little short sections of rock to haul myself up. Really grippy rock with lots of handholds though, easy to see where others had been (yellowing smooth sections) and again not particularly exposed. There were a couple of ‘shutes’ where SOBOs were passing bags/poles down to make it easier to downclimb, but going up was very straightforward. MUCH easier than I’d expected.

Finally reached the top with a short scree climb (again, nice and easy) for views down to Lake Constance. Now for the dreaded scree descent!

The first part was actually simple as the scree was nice and deep so you could just ‘scree run’ it. This takes you to an epic viewpoint over the lake…

The next part was a little harder as the scree became thinner and easier to slip on. There were grassy hummocks to step down in most places though, so nothing dreadful – just slow and steady until you finally reach the stream at the bottom. I had a relay team of grasshoppers accompany me all the way, which I’m sure helped!

Unfortunately, getting to the stream doesn’t mean you’re finished for the day (unless you’re camping up here, which apparently is terribly cold and windy). You now have to walk along the shore of Lake Constance and then navigate up, over and down the rocky bluffs at the far end before you get your view of Blue Lake. This for me was the hardest part of the day as I was tired, hot and not up for a series of narrow, steep gritty scrambles up what looked like goat tracks. I may have vented just a little at an unfortunate day hiker out for a wander! However, you finally make it down one last scree slope and over the moraine to see your prize – Blue Lake. It’s (probably) worth it…!!!!

Just a short descent through trees on an easy path to the lake shore and the hut (the path doesn’t actually go via the lake – you need to turn right before the hut for that). Lovely hut, again pretty much deserted when I got in around 2.30pm. Dropped my stuff and headed to the shore, but the sun was already down over the surrounding peaks and it wasn’t quite as glorious as the pics, so I dodged the sandflies and planned another look in the morning. A very cool place for an evening stroll though, if you can put up with the bites.

Day 10: Blue Lake hut to West Sabine hut (8k, 3h)

Pretty much a half day. Decided to take a lie in and wait for the sun to come up over the lake, which it did around 9.30, and it was well worth it. Suddenly the colours transformed from shades of blue to turquoise, lime green and others. It was obvious now just how clear the water was, as the greens were algae meters below on the lake floor. Took far too many pictures but eventually the sandflies won and and I packed up to head off down the valley.

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Now it was down the Sabine for lunch. This was a truly glorious part, with the tumbling river cascading alongside at the top and slowing to a steady murmur by the time you cross the swingbridge to the hut. Peaceful beech woodland prompted thoughts of Middle Earth, but no elves (or humans) at the hut – just me and the sandflies until mid-afternoon. I bathed naked (possibly not the wisest move in full view of that bridge but it was hot), washed clothes to dry on the deck, and took an afternoon nap on two mattresses. Ahhh, the tramping life at its finest! A few groups trickled in later, including late entry Paul who was doing BIG mile days SOBO. Decided to head down to Sabine tomorrow rather than over Travers Saddle, as I’ve done that side before.

Day 11: Not the TA! West Sabine hut to Sabine hut (15k, 4h30)

No regrets about choosing this route – it was sublime pretty much all the way. 90% or more beech forest and just a couple of short climbs where it wasn’t possible to follow the river. Another stunning gorge around 30 mins from the hut where a couple were jumping in (too bloody cold for me) and the hut itself has the sort of view from the dining area and front bunkroom that would cost a small fortune in a hotel. I went for a quick dip in the lake (surprisingly warm) but once again the sandflies won. We need bioengineering on this thing folks!

Only a family of boaties in for lunch (blagged the remains of some chips off them) and then a handful of off-route TAs and Travers-Sabine trampers in across the afternoon. Two mattresses again and a lake view. I could get used to this!

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Day 12: To town – Sabine Hut to St Arnaud along Speargrass Track (17k, 6h)

Final day! TBH I would have stayed another night but I was running out of gas, food and (crucially) toilet paper, so town it was. A steady haul up the easy Speargrass track, past Speargrass hut set on an open hillside for lunch. Pulled into the Mt Roberts carpark just in time to grab a ride down to the main road with a DoC worker, then scored another ride a km further on from (of all people) an old run buddy from Auckland! Small world eh?

Checked into Alpine Lodge, only to find dorm all full. I had to put up with a hotel room instead (the pain!!!) and spent the rest of the day washing self/clothes, lounging in the bar and eating actual food. With wine. It all tastes SO much better after a few days dehydrated meals, but I kinda miss those DOC mattresses and the quiet.

Took one final day (in the backpackers though) for a cheeky run up to Lakehead hut and back, then it was a ride from a Trail Angel to Nelson and home. Next year will be the Richmonds, and possibly the end of the trail as I’ve done QCT before. This was a stunning section and I wonder if that will top it. I learnt to be flexible in my plans and that it’s seldom as bad as you think it will be. I asked and the Universe provided. Happy Trails!

Day 6: Hooley Rd junction to Cosy Corner carpark (23km)

Another full day, and more challenging beach. Started out with the remains of the inland forest walk, which was a bit nicer today with more sun and greenery. I really like odd-looking ‘grass trees’ which are kind of like NZ spiky Spaniards stuck on a punga trunk! Karri and peppermints gave way to grass trees and then low scrub as we made our way up and over to the coast at Boranup Beach. This was the longest beach stretch so far and I got permission from out walking group leader to cut loose and stomp on to the end at Hamlin Bay. Very happy to do so as once again the tide was coming in and the walkable part of beach getting steadily narrower! The first half wasn’t too bad as there were 4WD tracks to walk in, but after about 4km those ran out and it was soft sand all the way. Stunning white sand and turquoise blue sea but also a 50-60kph headwind that meant I was walking with my neck tube pulled up over mouth and nose to avoid the blasting sand coming head on along the beach. Not pleasant! Made it to Hamlin Bay about 30min ahead of the rest and spent time looking for the famous stingrays by the jetty. Only one out though. Bus finally arrived for lunch and to meet up with the others, then off again along south Hamlin beach, where we had to pull folks up the ridiculously steep dune at the far end at Salmon Holes! Inland walking for the rest of the day up to tiny Foul Bay lighthouse and then a short downhill to the road at Cosy Corner. Pretty easy walking apart from the beaches, but that dune would have been tough with a large pack!

Day 7: Cosy Corner to Cape Leeuwin lighthouse (23km)

The final day! Not everyone walked all of it, as it involved another long beach section. However, most of the group were up for the blowholes section at the start and it didn’t disappoint, particularly after all the stormy weather and high seas! Deepdene beach was predictably long and a bit of a slog but the sand was much harder-packed than Boranup, and the wind less strong. Again I was let loose at the front and so could stomp on to the rocks at the far end. That was fun, and not as difficult as the guidebooks suggest, with just one narrow section that can be bypassed by heading up through the scrub on a small track. Some stunning white sand and boulder-strewn beaches to follow before heading up inland and over Cape Augusta on narrow bush tracks. It seemed like we could see the lighthouse forever but never any closer! Finally it was down across the road for the final few bays. Quarry Bay was a mess of thigh deep rotting seaweed and I would suggest bypassing it via the road at high tide. The last stretch around the headland to the lighthouse seems never-ending but is pretty, especially the calcified water wheel. C2C walkers get free entry to the area round the lighthouse so we ran up and touched it before joining up for a champagne toast. Yay!!!

Sum up: despite my reservations of doing this as a guided tour, it probably worked it for the best considering the terrible weather. I’d have been very cold and wet in my 1P tent and really appreciated having decent food and a hot shower each night, as well as only carrying a day pack. Yes it was slower than usual, but that meant I rested my injured ankle. It also meant I got to chat to a load of really interesting and inspirational people who showed that age and injury/illness is no barrier to adventure. At times I had to run to keep up with octogenarians, and the oldest of the group was on her fourth end-to-end, having camped for two of those! The guides were excellent and apart from the cost ($2500+) I would happily do this sort of thing again. However, I still want to come back in spring to try it S-N and camping!

Day 3: Moses Rock carpark to Gracetown (16km)

Only a half day, finishing at lunch. It was nice to have a short one though so if doing this solo you might want to do likewise and stay in Gracetown, although you could easily hike from Moses Rock campsite to Ellensbrook campsite in a full day.

Weather still a bit iffy, alternating between gusty wind, rain and ‘not too bad’. Too cold to take advantage of any of the excellent swim spots though. Started back at Moses Rock North carpark and pretty soon passed through the campsite, which was scattered through the trees. A bit a a paddle through Wilyabrup Brook but not above ankle depth. At Biljedup Brook there’s a bonkers staircase that looks like it should be in a town centre (all stainless steel!) then steep up and down over the headland. At Cullens beach we walked through the dune slack/swale behind the foredunes to stay out of the wind, surrounded by more sea spurges. A steep sandy climb off that beach onto more cliff top 4WD track, through shoulder high scrub and boulders and finally an excellent rocky section around North Point down into Gracetown. That final bit was a struggle for those less steady on their feet but with a daypack and poles it was no problem. Gracetown beach would be heavenly in sunshine but we were ready to jump in the bus for a winery tour!

Day 4: Gracetown to Margaret River mouth/ Prevelly (19km)

Another full day but less than 20km, which is cruising with just a day pack! Boring start on road as tide was in, but then back onto cliffs over Cowaramup Point and down to Lefthanders surf beach. Only a handful of hardy souls out as it was again strong winds and grey sky. Mostly cliff top walking to the old homestead at Ellensbrook, where we were greeted with scones, cream and jam! I could get used to this guided walk thing! Easy stroll on wide path through woods past Ellensbrook campsite then short uphill over Gnoocardup road and down to beach at rocky outcrop called Joey’s Nose. Lovely white sand beach (Kilcarnup) which got progressively more challenging as the tide came in, until we were edging the side of dunes to get to the boat ramp! Back up to cliff tops over Cape Mentelle and round to river mouth. River not yet broken through sandbar and should have been dry but the high winds and tide meant that waves were breaking across it so we got wet feet after all! Just a short uphill track to meet bus at top of hill.

Day 5: Margaret River mouth to Hooley Road junction (26km)

‘Proper’ length hiking day at last! More mixed weather, and winds/high tides made the beach sections rather challenging. In nicer conditions they would have been lovely though.

Forest section to start, which was different and kept us out of the wind and rain. 360+ steps down to Boojidup Brook, where it was so slippy we nearly lost one of the group down a gully! Up and over headland to the first really long beach section of the track. Tide and waves were surging right up to the dunes in places so it was a case of leg it between dry bits! We were soaking wet and knackered by the time we scrambled up the rocks to the carpark at Redgate and very happy to climb on the bus for hot chocolate! Took pity on a couple of ‘proper’ through-hikers who’d escaped the beach via rough dunes/scrub and were shivering by the toilet block – fed them hot drinks to recover. Several folks sensibly bailed out at this point. Back out onto Redgate beach and a stream crossing (Calgardup Brook) where one of the two other group members still pushing on fell into a hole and got even wetter! Up onto headland amid weird ‘grass trees’ and burnt scrub, then rocky steps down to Bob’s Hollow for lunch break and back up past limestone cliffs to Contos campground. Really green over the tops with regenerating plants. Contos is so huge we actually got a bit lost finding the bus for hot drinks and to pick up more walkers. Out past (closed) Point Road campground and along forestry roads to pickup at Hooley Road junction. Probably my least favourite part of the track as the forest isn’t up to NZ standards and no sea views. Lots of deadfall from the wild weather too. Would probably have been lovely in hot weather as a respite from the sun though, or when it’s greener in spring.

Day 2: Yallingup to Moses Rock car park (19km)

First full day, as yesterday was only an afternoon. Started from carpark where we finished yesterday, then off along the coast again. Totally different weather day – started out nice enough, if a bit grey, but just after the lunch stop (Injidup beach carpark) it began absolutely hosing down, and the whole section along 4WD tracks on the cliff tops to Moses Rock carpark was basically dismal. We did see some kangaroos near the end, but gale force winds, torrential sideways rain and the threat of lightning kind of out a dampener on that section! Very very glad to see the minibus and that I wasn’t camping out at Moses Rock tonight! Having said that, the scenery was still spectacular. Injidup beach is lovely and the sea spurges added colour. We even saw kangaroos near the end of the walk (keep your eyes open on the boardwalked section near Moses Rock). The 4WD tracks would have been very hot and sandy without the rain, so maybe it even helped. Quininup Brook was only a trickle and no sign of the waterfall, although maybe tomorrow it would be a torrent after the rain! Again, signage was clear and easy to follow. Several steep ups and downs from beaches but mostly on well made wooden steps or log rollers, so nothing difficult. Some of the track around Canal Rocks is rocky and might be a bit more challenging with a full 7 day camping pack, but again not too bad.

Well that was different! Got a lift with Bill from the campground and a load of trail runners (out here to recce the Coast to Coast run route) to Morrisons footbridge, then up the Deception to Goat’s Pass hut and on down the Mingha to Greyney’s shelter. Wasn’t planning on doing it but Bill talked me into it and I’m glad he did as it was an absolutely awesome day. Bloody hard work and occasionally terrifying (some deep/strong river crossings) but awesome! Tagged onto a couple of kind runners who let me shadow them pretty much all the way up Deception, thus going much faster and avoiding route finding. Also got a bit of help with a couple of the sketchier river crossings ( my shorts got a good rinsing and so did my knickers on a couple of deeper ones!) Top section got a bit gnarly with huge boulders to negotiate. Final scramble up a mostly dry stream bed to the hut. Just over 4h up.

The other side was completely different : pristine boardwalk to start with panoramic views, then a crystal clear river and into beech forest for some twisty single track. A few rather steep scrambles up and down to stream but mostly lovely. Short breathless climb up Dudley’s Knob about halfway down, then more beech trails, often boardwalked. Passed by numerous speedy Coast to Coasters all the way down. Popped out about 3K from the end into a wide valley with pines and grassland. Flattish easy running to the end at Greyney’s Shelter, where more kind runners dropped me back at Arthur’s Pass to buy a cold beer. Shower, last night’s left over pizza and bed in my hobbit hole. Finished for another year, and what a way to end it!

Short day – buffet breakfast at hotel then waited for Colin and Tenley to rock up from the hut. Got going just after 10.30 : easy stroll to Greyney’s Shelter. Took a bit of an alternate route as suggested by SOBOs we met yesterday – crossed the Waimakariri right by the hotel (follow ‘River walk’ signs) then followed the power poles and a 4WD/digger track near them pretty much all the way to the rail bridge. Easy crossing of very low Mingha by bridge then stroll to Greyney’s where we split up. I walked/hitched to Arthur’s Pass and the others carried on to Goat Pass Hut. Trey have a LONG day…

Staying at The Sanctuary backpackers/campsite – awesome place and owner Bill is SO nice. I’m in a cute hut made from an old piece of concrete pipe called the Hobbit Hole. Big round window with view of mountains. Dinner at The Wobbly Kea and Bill talked me into slack packing Goat Pass tomorrow in a day as a load of Coast to Coast runners are doing it. Hmmmmm…

Well that took longer than I expected! Waved everyone off and chilled out in hut until 11 as thought it would only take 4h and hotel checkin doesn’t open until 3pm. Pretty straightforward to start but then got stuck with yet more unobvious river crossings and scrambles over rocks, plus chats with lots of SOBOs. Finally reeled Tenley and Colin in around lunchtime and took off for the end. Lovely lovely track – beech woods with actual orange markers and only one way to go!!! Up to Lagoon saddle for breathtaking views and then a long drop down to Bealey hut and the road. No-one offered a lift so 3-4km road walk to Bealey Hotel for a cold cider, shower and food in that order. No idea what I’m doing tomorrow – toe and heel blisters are pretty bad so might need to rest feet for a bit. Great section though!

Lift out of Methven with Darren from the campground. Persuaded him to drive me partway up the road to Lake Georgina to start walking (played the ‘terrible blisters’ card, which tbh they are…) Glorious scenery all round and hot sunny day. Lovely! Got talked into another mini-lift for a few km a bit further on my some ladies in a camper van who couldn’t believe I’d want to be out in the heat. Seemed rude not to, and glad of a chat. They dropped me out at Lake Selfie (cue obligatory selfie with lake) the just a 10k or so to the campground. Lots of car campers, including a whole bunch of bogans with beers and beat up cars. Found a quiet corner out of the pretty strong wind and pitched tent, then off to lake shore for a relaxing afternoon. New NOBO hiker arrived as I got back (Colin) then Tenley strolled in about 7pm having walked all of the road. Wow! Pretty cushty day all in all – just hope the Lanshan stands up to this wind overnight!

Phew – more river crossings and another district lack of poles. Someone really needs to buy DOC a few more sets…

Found track start fine after warm and cosy night in the Lanshan (although it rustled like a crisp packet all night in the wind). Following the riverbank all the way up to the Avoca confluence, where things got a bit confusing. Lots of braids, no poles, just try to keep following tyre and boot marks in the rocks and mud. Finally ended up in correct valley but somehow managed to miss the geologically awesome Pinnacles by concentrating on my feet and the map. Bugger!

Next section was basically just crossing and recrossing the Harper River. Few poles, 4WD track not always obvious and often in a different place to track on the map. Took forever but finally out into lively beech forest and Hamilton Hilton. Pretty flash but then it IS three basic hut tickets. Only one occupant when I arrived at lunchtime – SOBO Alex. Hot soup and chilled out afternoon waiting for Colin and Tenley to arrive.